BHERA – A HISTORICAL TOWN LOST IN OBSCURITY
Bhera is a historical city of the Sargodha District. It is located in the middle of the Lahore-Islamabad motorway (M2) at the left bank of river Jhelum near the Southern Salt Range in District Sargodha. Before independence in 1947. It was located in the district of Shahpur.
It was one of the most important towns of the central Chaj Doab. It was a north-south river route linking Kashmir with Multan and Sindh, and an east-west overland route connecting Afghanistan and Kashmir with Lahore and Delhi via the Salt Range.
“Bhera” is a Sanskrit word which means a place where there is no fear. The origin of Bhera is obscure. It was founded about 1540 on its present site, but it took the place of the city on the opposite bank of the river, of far greater antiquity, which was destroyed around this period. Alexander was here in 326 BC. He stayed for four days at Bhera and later crossed River Jhelum to battle with Raja Porus. It was in this battle that Alexander’s famous horse, Bucephalus, was killed.
CHINESE TRAVELERS’ VISIT TO BHERA
The Sub-continent was the sacred country for the Chinese people who were the followers of Mahayana Buddhism. The Buddhist pilgrims used to visit the sacred places of Buddhism in the sub-continent, facing heavy odds during the long and difficult journey.
Fa-Hien, a famous Chinese pilgrim, visit South Asia in the early years of the fifth century. Fa Hien left his home in western China in 399 A.D. for the sub-continent and followed a land route. He visited the sacred places of the Sargodha region also. In his account of travel, he says:
“I crossed the river Jhelum near Bhera”.
Hiuen–Tsang was another Chinese pilgrim who came to South Asia more than two centuries after Fa Hien. He remained in the sub-continent for 13 years – 630 AD to 643 A.D. He visited every province of the sub-continent. He mounted the Sargodha region saying; “During my wanderings, I saw the old and great city of Bhera which is the centre of art and learning and is ruled by a Raja, named Sangala.
Old Bhera was very much like old Lahore or old Peshawar. Its markets and streets were narrow. There was a circular road around the city. Old Bhera was on the right bank of river Jhelum, on the opposite side new Bhera is located. There are heaps of ruins, its markets and streets can be seen on the other bank of the river Jhelum. The town of Bhera used to have a boundary wall and eight gates. The gates were named after the big cities located in those directions.
MONUMENTS OF BHERA
Shahi Mosque:
The most important monument of the town is the Shahi Mosque., built during the reign of Sher Shah Suri (1540-1545 AD). The Mosque consists of 3 large domes, one central and two on the sides. Small bricks have been used in the construction. The style and structure of this grand mosque rival the Mughal period mosques of Delhi, Agra and Lahore. Bugvia Library is located in the mosque which was established by the scholars of the Bugvia family. There is a huge collection of books on different subjects and a large number of hand-written manuscripts are available here providing a useful source of reference for students, scholars and researchers for the last about 200 years.
Sheikhan Wali Masjid:
The Mosque is situated in the Mohallah of the same name. it is one of the monumental Mosque of Bhera. It may be called as Uchchi Masjid being built on a high plinth. The Mosque also dominates the skyline. The Mosque seems to have been built during Shah Jahan’s period in the 17 century.
OLD MOSQUES OF KHILJI AND TUGHLAQ PERIODS:
There are a few other historical mosques to the Tughlaq, Khilji and other eras. These Old Mosques of emperor Khilji and Tughlaq can be visited during the visit to the walled town. Due to unskilled local masons and a lack of awareness, these Mosques have lost their original shape.
OLD CITY GATES:
As the inner city of Lahore, Bhera had different gates which surrounded the whole city.
The gates around the Bhera city are:
- Multani Gate
- Lahori Gate
- Kashmiri Gate
- Kabuli Gate
- Peeranwala Gate
- Chinioti Gate
- Lahoranwala Gate and
- Haji Gulab Gate
Other famous gates have survived to date.
HINDU SIKH TEMPLES:
There was a large Hindu community in Bhera before the partition of the sub-continent. Old Hindu temples are also located in the city and alongside the river. A beautiful Sikh temple “Gurdwara Sahib” is also located in the central part of the town. Its minaret is visible from a long distance.
SHRINE OF MUSLIM SAINT “HAZRAT MIRAN SHAH”
Hazrat Miran Shah was a great saint who worked for the spread of Islam in the area. His shrine is located in the western part of the town near the river Jhelum. People from different parts visit his shrine in April to pay homage to the saint.
FOOD SPECIALTIES OF BHERA
Phainian and Traditional Sweets:
Phainian (fine spaghetti in milk) and sweets (especially Pateesa) are a great gift for everyone on all occasions. Sweets are produced from natural ingredients and fresh milk, with a variety, having distinctive character, aroma and flavouring.
Wariyan:
These are the dried lentils with mixed spices.
Mehndi or Henna:
Bhera is also famous for the production of Mehndi or Henna, used for hair colour, and made from the powdered leaves of a shrub plant, Lawsonia. Mehndi is a traditional form of decoration for women in countries like Pakistan and India. It is generally used for special occasions, particularly weddings and religious festivals. Applied as mud and washed out after a few hours, its effects last for a few weeks. Henna decorating is a favourite art and hobby.
TOWN ARCHITECTURE, CRAFTS AND PRODUCTS
Bhera was a great business centre in South Asia. It was also called the “wheat centre” and the “market of mehndi” (henna). Camel was used here for travelling before the introduction of train and bus. There were many inns where businessmen and travellers stayed. Woodwork from here was famous all over the Indian subcontinent. Some of the carved wooden doors in Bhera are now on display in the Lahore Museum. The carving is both floral and geometric. The wooden balconies or “Jharokas” too are a sight to behold.
Bhera was also a great centre of industries. The knife and sword were made skillfully.
Still in production are the wooden tops or ‘lattoos’. So too are its colored wooden bed-posts with inlaid work.
Reference: The Tourism Development Corporation of Punjab. E-mail: tdcpstp@punjab.gov.pk Web:http;//tdcp.punjab.gov.pk